The white tights with which Marni accessorised every look will be a minority pursuit, but they were a foil for the cropped-at-the-shin black trousers that came out with almost everything else. The trousers were part of what Consuelo Castiglioni described as “my ongoing love affair with all things masculine. Fashion charms beads. But I wanted to counteract the boyishness with curved, slender shapes.” And that’s what she did. Short-sleeved tops and belted jackets had an almost hour-glass outline, but there were plenty of loose, drop-belted coats and dresses for those who avoid obvious come-hither dressing.
Men wear suits because they have to, and hence often wear them badly: women should wear them – and wear them well. Armani is the best soft-line tailor in fashion, exemplified in this collection. The dark colours and block-like shape of a men’s suit-based outfit distracts from the particulars of its wearer, while drawing the eye to a woman who’s confident enough in her femininity to play with a masculine uniform. The rakish hats were a gimmick but looked great.
